Brazil: Porto de Galinhas

From Olinda we started to head south to Salvador. We decided to break up the trip in three parts. The first stop is to the small beach town of Porto de Galinhas. Many years when we were in Patagonia, we asked one of our guesthouse hosts where they went for winters. We were told the northeast of Brazil. Now we finally realized this is the type of place he was talking about.

Jangadas, small, 4 to 5 meter long, lateen sail rig, shallow draft, daggerboard keel, sailrafts, ply the zone between the beach and the reef, taking tourists on joy rides at high tide, and tidal pool walks at low tide.








Here's a short video of a sailboat sailing by.


While on the beach, get your mixed drinks (1st below) or Chopp (Draft Beer) (2nd below).




Morning low tide walk on the beach.








Sun-Ling wading in the onshore tidal pools.


Many restaurants, cafes, beach gear shops, tour operators, and bars operate on the streets just off the beach.


Spear Fisherman.

Brazil: Recife

From Olinda we rode the local bus to Recife historic center for a tour. Recife is another child of the sugar fortune. Sugar was so lucrative that the Dutch captured and controlled the region in the 17th century for 24 years. Though it was brief, the layout of the center remains Dutch and it was the Dutch that determined Recife's prominence over Olinda.

Recife reminded us much of Rio, except worse for wear. Again the past riches evidenced in the churches were amazing, at the same time such reminders of the violent basis that gave rise to European powers.

The historic center of Recife, the Island of Recife plus the Peninsula of Bairro do Recife, is reinventing itself around Marco Zero, a small 'Km 0' marker in the middle of the broad waterside Praça Rio Branco, marking the place where the Portuguese founded Recife in 1537. The yellow building with two domes is the new CAIXA Cultural Center.






And on the north side, the Cais do Sertão Museum.


Former Building of the Port Inspection of Recife (1st below) and another nearby historic building.




Just off the Praça Rio Branco, the Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue is on Rua do Bom Jesus (Street of Good Jesus), aka "The Jewish Street". This street is very busy with tourists, touts, and vendors.








Some street scenes.






Over the bridge in Bairro do Recife are the Pernambuco government municipal buildings like the Palace of Justice (1st below) and the old Train Station (2nd below)




Nearby are a few very extravagant churches like the Capela Dourada, a chapel of the Franciscan Order. First below is the painting of the Twenty-Six Martyrs of Japan which hangs on the wall of the chapel. Second below: tons of gold leaf.




Co-Cathedral of St. Peter of Clerics






Lunch at Vegetariano Restaurant.


Lastly, we stopped in the Recife City Museum to investigate F.H. Carls, a 19th-century lithographer who worked in Recife, and is related to my cousin Danny on his mother's side. We received a very warm welcome from researcher Sandro who showed us a folio of Carls's lithographs put together by the city of Recife in 2007: "The 2007 "Album de Pernambuco e seus Arrabaldes - 1878 Lithographs of F.H. Carls".


Carls had an office/workshop/company on Rua do Marques de Olinda. The building does not exist today although the street is in the same location, but maybe it's shown in the print below.


Teatro de Santa Isabel - at left in the print below. And my recent photo (2nd below).




Patio do Terco




View to Olinda from Recife.

Brazil: Olinda

From Belo Horizonte we flew to Recife, the fourth-largest urban area in all of Brazil, but based ourselves in Olinda founded in 1535. Olinda was the original settlement and capital of the state. Like many of such places, once the seat of power was transferred, in this case to Recife, the place became a time capsule.

The Historic center of Olinda has colonial buildings among the oldest in Brazil, built by the sugar cane fortune. While the hill setting beside the sea is picturesque, the historic center does not bustle with residents or tourists, only the hilltop area is a big draw. The state of preservation is a little lacking by Minas Gerais standards, though it is apparent there has been ongoing work; in fact, Sao Bento was closed for restoration during our visit.

Great views of Recife, and the coast of Brazil as we descend for landing.






The breakfast at our guesthouse was amazing.




After breakfast we headed straight to Cathedral Hill (Alto da Sé ). First stop was the Convent and Church of Saint Francis of Assisi and its amazing blue and white Azulejos (Ceramic Tiles), imported from Portugal around 1660. First below is the view to the Pacific Ocean from the Convent.






The Sacristy, one of the most beautiful in all of Brazil.


The Stigmatization of St. Francis


Olinda is a popular tourist destination for Brazilians. On leaving St Francis, we were passed by a jeep tour.




The Cathedral.


The views from Cathedral Hill to Recife are amazing.




From Cathedral Hill we headed down to Rua do Amparo to pick up some groceries; then walked past some very colorful buildings on the way back to our guesthouse.




For a late lunch we had 2 very tasty lunch menu plates at Cozinha Divina Vegetarian Restaurant. Friendly folks there as well.


Some buildings around Olinda.




The Basilica and Monastery of St. Benedict is completely closed for restoration, but we were able to peek inside.




We ran into a wedding celebration procession at the bottom of Cathedral Hill in the late afternoon, then again at the top of the hill just before sunset where they were both taking a break and having a party. Congratulations to Jerome from Germany and Samara from Brazil who met in 2012! Be sure to watch the video (3rd below)










Two Sunset views.




Video: View to Recife from Olinda's Cathedral Hill.